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  • Writer's pictureRALPH COPE

FOUR Tips to Buying Used Excavators



Investment in capital equipment is a big one, and should not be taken lightly. You need to make sure that you invest in high-quality equipment and do everything possible to avoid the "lemons". Here are four things you need to do to maximize the return on your investment.


Tip 1: Do Your Homework on the Market

Do you want to be in the mainstream workflow or do you want to target a more niche market? Vikfin specializes in 20 and 30-ton excavator spares in South Africa. We know that 20-ton machines get more work than 30-ton machines because they are the objects of mainstream demand. The bigger machines are more scarce, and therefore can be hired out at a premium, but the work is more patchy. It is also easier to find 20-ton parts than 30-ton parts. You need to research the market and clearly identify which part of the market you want to attack, and then acquire the appropriate machinery to attack that market. Dam building in the Western Cape is going to need more firepower while ripping up grave vines in the vineyards is going to require less. For the wine farmers, you may be better off investing in a TLB or a mini excavator, while trying to build a dam with a mini excavator is going to take you forever.


Tip 2: Do Your Homework on the Seller

Many second-hand machines are being sold in the private market where researching the seller is going to be more complicated than buying through a dealer. It is also dangerous to assume that all dealers are reputable. When it comes to buying a second-hand machine, a good place is to trust no one. The earthmoving market in South Africa is relatively small which means that if you don't know the seller personally, it is highly likely that you know someone who knows them – or knows someone who knows someone. Ask around, be nosy. You can also chat with the engineering and hydraulic guys. Speak to the mechanics, the guys who sell you filters and seals – you are bound to find good or bad stories about your potential seller.


Tip 3: Check the History

This next one can be a little tricky because not all owners keep the service records on their machines or they do the maintenance themselves, but there is no harm in asking. Ask the seller if he can provide documentation that highlights the frequency of care and any major repairs that have been carried out. This can help you determine whether used heavy equipment has sustained too much damage through its life, which could be a reason to walk away. Remember – a well-maintained machine with higher hours is a safer bet than an under-maintained machine with considerably fewer hours.


Tip 4: Kick the Tyres

It is a good idea to take your mechanic (or a mechanic if you don't have a personal one) out to see the machine. You want to focus your time on parts that are the most expensive to replace and parts that can do the most damage if they are faulty. Let's start with the most expensive parts (in order). Firstly, you want to check the engine for leaks. Then fire her up and listen for any knocking or unusual sounds coming from the engine. The second most expensive part to replace is the final drive – the undercarriage of an excavator works hard and final drives are at the center of this. Drain the oil from the final drive and check for two things – firstly, you want to look for metal shavings in the oil. These shavings settle in the bottom of the drive, so make sure you check that oil on the bottom. You may need to walk the machine so that the oil plug is positioned at the closest point to the ground. Another red flag on final drive oil is if the oil is very new. This is not always a bad thing but could indicate that the seller has pumped new oil into the drive to mask a more serious problem. New oil has an amber/honey-like color. After removing oil from the drive, you want to take the cover off and check the sun gear and the planetaries for damage. Thirdly you want to check the slew, the valve bank, and the pump. The pump is very important. One sure-fire way to know if the pump is faulty is if your machine is sluggish. So jump into the cab – move the boom, the bucket. If there is sluggishness, the pump could be faulty. You can then move to less costly parts – such as cylinders. You want to check for leaks in the cylinders – it is possible that a nick on the chrome has damaged the seal on the cylinder and is causing the leak.

You also want to look out for the following:


Fluids: low or dirty fluids can be an indicator of prior poor maintenance. Always check the hydraulic fluid, engine oil, transmission fluid, and coolant to see what state they are in.

Bushings and pins: bushings are poor and pins are loose, this can indicate prior maintenance neglect and can result in future breaks and costly repair.

Rust or cracks: while some elements of these are to be expected in older machinery, be sure any cracks aren't a precursor to structural defects.

Welding: typically, welding is substandard to the machinery’s initial condition and can also indicate weaknesses.


Workshop Locations

Durban: Cliffdale Road, Bux Farm

Cape Town: Racing Park, Killarney Gardens

Johannesburg: 257 Bosworth Street, Alrode

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Telephone/WhatsApp

083 639 1982 (Justin Cope)

071 351 9750 (Ralph Cope)

©2019 by Vikfin (PTY) Ltd. 

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